Germany has a 150-year-old rule about forests. It may be the sanest idea in travel right now.

Southwestern Germany’s Palatinate region is dotted with over 130 castles, many now ruins. Perched on sandstone cliffs, they’ve borne witness to centuries of history. 

One, Hambach Castle, played a pivotal role in Germany’s democratic movement in 1832, while another, Trifels, housed medieval emperors and even imprisoned Richard the Lionheart. 

But don’t let the fairytale landscape fool you. Palatinate also has one foot in the future, and if you visit this part of Germany, you get to be a part of it. It’s a vision of tomorrow that combines a rich and complex history with a meticulous pursuit of sustainability.

An orchard along the “New Shepherds’ Trails,” a project that reintroduces traditional grazing with sheep and goats to prevent old orchards and valleys from being swallowed by forest. (Photo by Aren Elliott.)

History and sustainability meet here

Palatinate is home to Germany’s largest contiguous forest, covering about 80 percent of its surface. This expansive woodland, part of the Palatinate Forest–Northern Vosges Biosphere Reserve, is more than a natural wonder. It’s also Germany’s only cross-border UNESCO biosphere reserve, and a model project for sustainability. 

Here, the goal is clear: balance the needs of mankind with the health of the environment, teaching people to “act and react more sustainably,” according to local guide Ute Seitz.

“Sustainability,” she explained, using the German word Nachhaltigkeit, “comes from their thinking and from their planning for the future.” 

Foresters developed this concept over 150 years ago, establishing the principle that you aren’t allowed to take more wood out of a forest per year than the forest can produce.  It’s a simple, profound idea, and perhaps one the world needs today more than ever. Don’t consume more than you produce.

Ripening grapes on a vineyard in Germany’s Palatinate region. (Photo by Aren Elliott.)

A Mediterranean microclimate responds to global warming

Palatinate’s unique microclimate, often compared to the Mediterranean, means you’ll spot fig trees, kiwi, and even bananas growing and thriving outdoors, a sight that surprises many visitors. But this pleasant warmth also brings challenges. 

Seitz says temperatures here are rising quickly, leading to a series of problems. One of them is overpopulation of wild boars. Warmer winters reduce the natural mortality rate for the boars. These animals, which are clever and can’t be hunted in the protected core zones, emerge at night to devour roots and almost anything else they can find to eat. The boars disrupt a delicate balance that the reserve strives to maintain.

The biosphere reserve is structured into core, maintenance, and development zones, each with specific rules to safeguard biodiversity and promote sustainable practices. 

One fascinating initiative is the “New Shepherds’ Trails,” a project that reintroduces traditional grazing with sheep and goats to prevent old orchards and valleys from being swallowed by forest. 

“The cattle don’t eat everything,” Seitz says, “especially not the blackberries. So, that’s why the goats are here.” 

It’s not just for aesthetics. It’s about maintaining cold air corridors that flow from the mountains to the valley, crucial for cooling down areas like Landau and the Rhine Valley that overheat during the summer.

Even the region’s renowned viticulture, a source of famous Riesling and Pinot Noir grape varieties, is evolving. Vintners are now being encouraged to plant fungus-resistant grapevine varieties, which can reduce the use of pesticides, especially fungicides, by up to 80 percent. It’s a significant step, even if consumer preference for traditional varieties means adoption isn’t as fast as some would hope.

But the pursuit of sustainability here isn’t just about grand ecological projects. It seeps into the local economy, inspiring entrepreneurs to reconnect with the land and its resources in profound ways.

Timo Keller, owner of the Wasgau Ölmühle in Hauenstein, Germany. (Photo by Aren Elliott.)

Wasgau Ölmühle: crafting purity, one cold press at a time

In the nearby village of Hauenstein, small businesses are also writing the next chapter in Palatinate’s sustainability story. At the Wasgau Ölmühle (oil mill) in Hauenstein, owner Timo Keller is refining the art of cold-pressed oils.

Keller, an engineer by training, says refined oils are chemically extracted and then cleaned, a process that strips them of some healing qualities. His method, by contrast, involves applying high pressure on the seed to squeeze the oil in a more natural process. 

“You have to use the best raw material if you want to get the best oil,” he explained.

Keller says 80 percent of the oil used in Germany is refined. He sees it as his mission to educate people about the profound difference between “oil and oil.” Or, to put it differently, not all oils are created the same.

That, they definitely aren’t. The öhlmühle produces a range of oils, from common rapeseed and sunflower to specialty linseed and walnut oils. But the undisputed star (a true “miracle oil,” according to Keller) is its black cumin seed oil (Nigella sativa). Among its claimed health benefits: combating diabetes, inflammation, and allergies, and even supporting liver and kidney health, he says.

Keller shared a story of a customer who was hospitalized four times with high inflammation and fever, receiving antibiotics without a clear diagnosis. After hearing about black cumin seed oil, he began taking it daily. 

“One day later, the fever was gone,” Keller recounted. “And he never had problems again.”

One of Keller’s innovations was adjusting the strong, bitter taste of black cumin seed oil. His daughter discovered that cherry juice improved the taste, and he later found that by pressing orange rind together with the black seeds, he could create an oil with a harmonious, slightly citrusy flavor.

Whether or not you believe the health claims, one thing you can be certain of is that the oils are being processed in a sustainable way. Keller tries to source the seeds as locally as possible. While some seeds, like black cumin, are currently imported from Egypt, he’s diligently working to motivate farmers to cultivate the imported seeds in Germany. He anticipates that German-grown seeds will soon account for 10 to 20 percent of their production.

And nothing goes to waste at the mill. The leftover press cake that remains after the oil has been extracted isn’t discarded. Press cake from nuts, walnuts, cashews, almonds, and linseed gets repurposed into food because it’s high in proteins and low in carbs. This by-product becomes a valuable ingredient for those on low-carb or keto diets. It’s a remarkable example of the circular economy in action, turning what might be waste into a healthy resource.

As more travelers look for wellness on their vacations, places like the mill are becoming increasingly attractive destinations.

Sustainability as a way of life

The Palatinate, with its ancient ruins looming over a landscape shaped by nature and human ingenuity, is a destination where sustainability is more than a buzzword. From the biosphere reserve’s efforts to preserve overgrown orchards with grazing animals and introduce fungus-resistant grapevines, to the Wasgau Ölmühle’s dedication to producing cold-pressed oils and educating consumers, this part of Germany is relentlessly pursuing all things green.

But the destination is the journey here. And it’s an adventure fraught with challenges like climate change and the complexities of land management. The commitment is unmistakable. It’s in the quiet work of Seitz, explaining the nuances of ecological balance, and in Keller’s passionate advocacy for oils. The Palatinate may not be synonymous with sustainability yet, but it’s definitely on its way.