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High
Times in the Winter
US
News & World Report · December
16, 2002
Edyth
Schoenrich scales the Swiss Alps almost every winter. She takes in the
same bird's-eye view that backcountry skiers and mountain climbers do–steep,
dangerous rock formations covered in deep powder snow. But the 83-year-old
medical professor from Baltimore never breaks a sweat–and gets to enjoy
crackers and warm brie with a glass of Burgundy, served en route. "It's
so serene," she enthuses, "so spiritual."
Conquering the Matterhorn in January isn't generally a tranquil experience–unless
you're doing it from the basket of a hot-air balloon. And more folks are
doing just that. The Balloon Federation of America sees a steady inflation
in the balloon business. "Winter ballooning is the bright spot," says
President Phil Bryant. Fueling the interest: the promise of a smoother,
longer ride; new tour operators who hope to get you naturally high; and
a series of ballooning festivals that aggressively promote this cold-weather
activity.
Peak season. Summertime balloonists can, of course, see the same
magnificent landscapes–the Swiss Alps, the Colorado Rockies, and the New
Mexico desert are prime launching pads. But conditions in winter can be
better. Gone are the dreaded thermals–rising columns of air that are warmer
than the surrounding air–that can make for a rough ride in summer. "Everything
is just so clean and fresh with the winter air," says Tina Reeves, editor
of Balloon Dispatch, an online magazine. How about the cold? No need to
worry about the wind chill, because you're flying with the wind. Plus,
the burners that heat the air inside the balloon and keep it aloft also
keep passengers warm and toasty.
Ballooning isn't without risks. Over the past decade, there have been
174 hot-air-ballooning accidents and 21 deaths, according to the National
Transportation Safety Board. A Mayo Clinic study of hot-air-balloon crashes
concluded that pilot error was a leading cause; so was collision with
power lines. The researchers suggested that more training could lead to
fewer accidents–in other words, look for an experienced flight crew and
operation.
The price can be stratospheric. Adventurer Buddy Bombard, the luxury-ballooner
patronized by Schoenrich, charges about $1,400 a day for six- or nine-day
packages; the rate includes meals, a deluxe hotel room, and a daily 31/2-hour
balloon excursion. Stateside, a half-hour in a balloon can set you back
more than $100, a price that can include champagne and breakfast. But
to really get some altitude–and see why this trend is about more than
hot air–you'll typically spend twice that to stay aloft a few hours.
A wintertime balloon ride is usually slow and quiet. Merlin Sagon, who
runs Camelot Balloons near Beaver Creek, Colo., pilots his eight-person
balloon to a deliberate takeoff in the Vail Valley on a late-winter morning.
He sails more than a thousand feet into the deep blue sky until he reaches
an inversion layer where air temperatures can be as much as 30 degrees
higher than on the ground. The Gore Range looms on the horizon, covered
by a generous blanket of powder. "When it snows a lot, we see so much
wildlife here," says Sagon. "It's magnificent." He wraps each excursion
with a soft landing and servings of snacks with sparkling white wine and
hot cider.
Air voyeur. A winter balloon trip just isn't right, some would
argue, unless it's done en masse. Balloons are impressive things to look
at, cutting a sharp profile against a winter landscape with their bright
colors and designs. Events such as the Snowdown Balloon Rally in Durango,
Colo., are mostly admired from the ground. But if you're lucky enough
to know a pilot, it's worth begging for a ride. "The world is a different
place when you're up there, and there are balloons all around you," says
Doug Lenberg, a sponsor of February's Snowdown event.
Ballooner Bombard takes a few customers to the International Château d'Oex
Alpine Balloon Festival near Lake Geneva. Even with burners igniting and
shutting off, he says, it is peaceful, even a little surreal. Up on alpine
ridges, above the timberline, black chamois mountain goats let you float
within a few hundred feet of them. The balloon seems to climb the slopes
effortlessly and comes so close to snow-covered trees you can pick a pine
cone. Best of all, you don't need a rope and ice pick to see it all.
Christopher
Elliott is a travel commentator based in Key Largo, Fla. All e-mailed
questions may be edited, condensed or republished at the site's discretion.
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