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Snow, Surrealism Surprise Le Massif Skiers
Destinations · January 28, 2002

Le Massif is the kind of winter resort that surprises you at every turn. Often, without even trying to.

There's the St. Lawrence River, the frozen-over waterway at the base of the mountain, stretching almost as far as the eye can see. At times you find yourself slowing to a snowplow because the river looks so close that you're afraid of hitting a mogul and tumbling into the water.

The view is utterly spectacular, in a league with the aquatic backdrops found at resorts such as Heavenly in Lake Tahoe, Calif., or Alyeska in Girdwood, Alaska.

There's the snow itself. Skiing in the northeastern part of North America is often a disappointing experience, with either ice or slush to contend with, but rarely the consistent powdery precipitate that makes skiers trek out West year after year. Not at Le Massif, which claims to offer the highest vertical drop - 2,526 feet - east of the Canadian Rockies. After a decent snowfall, the white stuff holds its form until late in the afternoon.

But there's also a tradeoff. One of Le Massif's unpleasant surprises is the extreme temperatures. Unlike the dry cold of the Rockies, it can be a knock-your-breath away, burning iciness that penetrates your jacket, gloves and boots. If you stand at the top of L'Archipel on a windy winter day, you'll find yourself speechless - literally. The cold turns your face to an immovable appendage. If sub-zero conditions don't appeal to you, then consider coming here during the spring when the weather isn't as harsh.

And just when you think you've experienced every surprise Le Massif has to offer, there's more.

Take the prices, for instance. On paper, a ski weekend in Québec might look as expensive as a comparable trip to, say, Taos, N.M. But don't forget to do a little math: the Canadian dollar is worth about 60 percent of the Greenback. Once you factor in the exchange rate, Le Massif is a real bargain. (For example, a one-day adult pass costs $36.50 Canadian, or about $22, at Le Massif; the same ticket in Taos would cost $47 - that's U.S. dollars.)

Then there's the language. Bring your French phrasebook, because hardly a soul speaks English. It's an unfortunate fact that tourism officials would prefer you not to know, but once you're this far away from Québec City (about an hour's drive to the northeast) it is uncommon to find someone who speaks your language fluently.

In the language barrier lays yet another pleasant surprise, however. Québec is French without being, well … French. True, the people of the Charlevoix region are as immersed in French culture as any you'd find in the French Alps, perhaps even more so. They take extraordinary pride in their local cheeses, and the base lodge at Le Massif is thought to be the only on-mountain cafeteria in North America that serves snail.

Yet it's all without the pretense of the Parisians or the attitude you'd find at Continental ski resorts like Courchevel. The folks here are genuinely friendly. They'll point, gesture and try to speak to you in broken English until they manage to communicate with you, never losing a smile. You can't help but do the same.

Maybe the secret to Le Massif's many surprises isn't to be found at the resort, with its 36 postcard-perfect runs, but in the nearby town of Baie-St-Paul. This 324-year-old settlement on the banks of the St. Lawrence River is reminiscent of Austrian resorts such as Zell am See, wedged between towering mountains that reluctantly give way to the water. Baie-St-Paul is a haven for artists whose work is displayed in the many galleries and cafes along its narrow avenues. It's like SoHo with snow.

If you're lucky, you might find yourself skiing alongside one of these painters, some of whom moonlight as ski guides for Le Massif. One of them is Guy Paquet, the renowned Canadian surrealist who is content to carve elongated "S"-shapes into the powder one day every week. Paquet says resorts such as Le Massif and Baie-St-Paul, where he lives, fuel the imagination. "This is one of the most beautiful places on earth," he says without a trace of irony.

After a day following Paquet's tracks down Le Massif's scenic pistes, you probably won't find that surprising at all.

Petite-Rivière-Saint-François, Canada

How to get there: Le Massif is 45 miles from Québec City, accessible by a free shuttle bus, train or car. There are few direct flights from the United States; most itineraries connect through either Toronto or Montreal. For more information, call (877) Le Massif.

Where to stay: If you ski, the best lodging options are in Québec City, because other ski areas such as Mont-Sainte-Anne are also easily accessible from there. If you'd prefer some place quieter, check out the Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu at La Malbaie-Pointe-au-Pic, about an hour's drive northeast of Le Massif. Room rates start at about $140 during winter, which is the off-season. Call (418) 665-3703 or click on http://www.fairmont.com

What to do: When you're done skiing, head over to Québec City, recently named the most romantic ski town in the East by the guidebook "Ski America and Canada." Want to stay outdoors? Check out cross-country skiing and snowmobiling, which can be booked directly through your hotel or your travel agent.

Christopher Elliott is a travel commentator based in Key Largo, Fla.